Why Are Northeastern Chinese Everywhere in the Southwestern Tourist Hotspot of Xishuangbanna?

🌟This article is translated from None of Your Business School (不相及研究所). Founded in 2018, None of Your Business School (不相及研究所) is a Chinese self-media brand that explores the kinks and odds of China’s ethnographic and chorographic cultures (and subcultures, more often) through curious, humane eyes.

Friends returning from a trip to Xishuangbanna (西双版纳), a renowned tourist hotspot in Southwestern Yunnan province, told me that it seems to be almost overrun by people from Northeast China.

“I’ve never encountered this many Northeasterners even in Northeast China!”

These days, Xishuangbanna is quickly becoming another well-known haven for Northeasterners, just like Sanya, a resort city and the southernmost city on Hainan Island.

Every winter, as the snow line moves across the black soil of Northeast China, people living in Heilongjiang, Jilin, and Liaoning start packing their bags, migrating south like migratory birds.

They either drive south or hop on a flight, roughly tracing the Heihe-Tengchong Line — a rough population divide stretching from northeastern Heilongjiang to southwestern Yunnan, where most of China’s population resides in the east — before arriving at the borders of the southwest.

More than one Northeastern netizen has mentioned that as soon as they step off the plane in Xishuangbanna, they feel like they’re back in the Northeast.

“Walking out of Xishuangbanna Airport, I hop into a ride-share car, and the driver is from the Northeast. I reach my accommodation, and the owner is also from the Northeast. When I go out to eat, the restaurant owner is yet another Northeasterner.”

In Xishuangbanna, you’re more likely to encounter a Northeastern person than a member of a local minority ethnic group.

To a certain extent, Northeasterners have redefined Xishuangbanna’s commercial ecosystem and cultural landscape. Taxis, tobacco and alcohol shops, dining services, hotels, and even the accents on the streets all highlight the strong presence of Northeasterners.

When you stroll through the Mengle Rainforest Health Theme Park, you’re greeted by middle-aged folks speaking with a heavy Northeast accent.

In the afternoon, as you walk along the banks of the Lancang River to enjoy the scenery, a group of shirtless older men naturally slips into your frame. Where are they from? They’d point back to Heilongjiang, Jilin, and Liaoning.

A friend in Xishuangbanna said that it seems like there are more and more Northeastern restaurants on the streets. You can easily find authentic goose braised with an iron potor Qiqihar Barbecue.

Even the local Dai cuisine didn’t escape the influence of Northeastern food culture – there are now Dai-style “big rice wraps” (a signature Northwestern dish)! If one day you find mint and coriander in your Northeastern goose braised in an iron pot, don’t be surprised.

“The last time I walked into a rice noodle shop, I asked why Yunnan people eat dumplings during the winter solstice, and the owner turned out to be from Heilongjiang.” (Eating dumplings is more of a northern tradition for the winter solstice in China.)

The Starry Night Market, touted as one of Asia’s largest night markets and a must-visit for tourists, has also been taken over by vendors from Northeastern.

If you ask a snack stall owner if their Dai food is authentic, you’re likely to hear, “Absolutely authentic, super delicious!” ( in a typical Northeastern accent.)

It’s no wonder some people joke that Yunnan has gained its twenty-sixth ethnic group: the Northeastern Dai.

It is said that there are now 300,000 Northeasterners settled in Xishuangbanna, with one street even named “Northeast Street,” serving as a gathering place for Northeastern immigrants there.

Everywhere you look, you can find Northeastern specialties like giant dumplings, barbecue, goose braised with an iron pot, and Harbin Paper-Wrapped Fish, while local dishes seem to have become a rarity.

Most street vendors are from the Northeast, allowing you to buy authentic Northeastern blood sausage, sticky rice cake, and even Northeastern vegetables.

Northeasterners in Xishuangbanna will never feel homesick.

Northeasterners are also involved in various industries, with nine out of ten travel agencies in Xishuangbanna being run by them.

“I planned to book a one-day tour with a travel agency and just casually walked into two; both owners were from the Northeast. The next day, I got on the tour bus, and the driver was from the Northeast, the guide was from the Northeast, and, most dramatically, most of the tourists were also from the Northeast.”

“Those who know (where they are traveling to) know this is Xishuangbanna, while those who don’t might think they’ve landed in Harbin.”

In a tourist clothing store in Gaozhuang, local visitors would never guess that the owner dressed in Dai attire has a passionate Northeastern spirit inside.

As you walk along, photographers often approach you, asking, “Hey girl, wanna take a picture?”

Even though you’re in Banna, the atmosphere is filled with Northeastern culture. This strong cultural clash leaves many tourists reflecting, “The ‘Northeastern Banna’ really lives up to its name.” (Northeastern Banna is a play on words of Xishuangbanna, highlighting the strong presence of Northeasterners in the area.)

The influence of Northeasterners in Xishuangbanna is all-encompassing; beyond culture, their way of life has also invaded the area.

The arrival of Northeasterners has changed the local trends in square dancing, with loud, cringe music booming in the water-splashing square. They can dance from day into night, leaving locals no space to join in.

There are also various walking groups, moving to the same beat and holding the same gestures, randomly appearing on the streets of Xishuangbanna.

Local discontent has spilled onto the internet, where you can find angry comments under video titles like “Northeasterners Occupy Xishuangbanna” and “Why Are There So Many Northeasterners in Xishuangbanna?”

Many Yunnan locals express that they welcome cultured Northeasterners, not those who lack manners and boundaries.

What really frustrates locals is that some Northeasterners are loud in public, pick fruits and vegetables from farmers’ gardens without permission, and even take flowers from the roadside.

Some Northeasterners have been spotted sunbathing in their underwear at the water-splashing square, and they’ve even brought their bath culture into the pools of Xishuangbanna.

“It’s often just a few bad apples that spoil the bunch.” Some Northeasterners have spoken up, reminding their peers to be mindful of their image and to follow the rules.

Xishuangbanna boasts China’s best-preserved tropical rainforests, rich biodiversity, a warm and hospitable climate, and a diverse culture featuring ethnic groups like the Dai, Hani, Bulang, and Jino.

But with the massive influx of Northeastern migrants, the indigenous people of Xishuangbanna feel a sense of helplessness.

"As a Yunnan native, I can’t believe I’m feeling like an outsider in my own hometown right now."